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adambeck

Indochino Novice

Posts: 40

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Nov 3 12 3:42 PM

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I just got my first Indochino purchase since going to their San Francisco Traveling Tailor and getting measured.


Here's an album of images. I wish my MacBook had a better webcam, but I think these shots should work.

Overall I think it turned out good, but there are some things I'm not sure about and wanted a second opinion on.


The shoulders seem right and I like the length of the Jacket (I prefer them a bit shorter than most, I think).


The sleeves seem a bit short, but I'm not sure if maybe my shirt is just too long? My shirt is from my previous Indochino purchase (prior to the Traveling Tailor), and I've felt like it might be a touch too long, but maybe that's where it's supposed to be? Advice here would be helpful. I have functional buttonholes, so changing that would probably require a remake, and not a tailor.


The sleeves seem like they might be a touch large in the bicep area, but maybe I'm wrong? This may be a good thing, since I like to wear sweaters under my jackets...


I've never been clear on where armholes are supposed to be but I feel like these may be too low.


All in all, I could turn around and be 80% happy with my purchase, but I want to order more from them in the future, so I feel like hammering out the details would be worthwhile. The quality of the jacket is real nice, it's insanely soft, though not as thick as I thought, so I'll have to layer during the colder months.  

I also feel like there may not be any interlining, which is a little concerning.  Maybe the blazers are meant to be that way?  It could just be my imagination, and there's no way to know without opening it up.


Thanks in advance for any help!

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indochinoreview

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#1 [url]

Nov 3 12 4:58 PM

I agree it's pretty good overall, fabric looks great. The sleeves are definitely too short, the shirt may play a role as well, as you said. How does it look with a different shirt? My guess is it's a combination of short suit sleeves and too long shirt sleeves (shirt does look too long in the pics). Armholes seem fine to me, sleeves could be slimmed down a bit.

I'd probably go for a lower button stance, but that's a matter of preference. About the interlining, someone has posted about exactly the same issue here a while ago. His tailor discovered that it was indeed missing and he asked for a remake. Would be weird for this to happen twice, but could be interesting to see what a tailor thinks!

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adambeck

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#2 [url]

Nov 3 12 5:55 PM

Someone on Reddit suggested buttoning the shirt cuffs to the tighter button and redoing the photos to check sleeve length, so here's that photo group.  I'l try to take a pic with another shirt entirely.  Any thoughts on how much longer the sleeves should be?  With the tighter cuff buttoning, I feel like it's closer, but may still need a touch of length.  Also, how much to slim down the sleeves?

I've been told my arms are longer than most, so I assume that's what's throwing things off for Indochino.  Are there any rules/guides regarding button stance?  I think I actually might prefer a higher button stance, as it feels a little more "retro" to me, but I don't know, I wish I could see it the other way to compare.

Regarding the interlining, I played around with it and it really doesn't feel like there's any, if I'm going to be getting a remake for the sleeves, I don't know if I want to waste my money on a tailor opening it up, since I assume they wouldn't make the same mistake twice in a row!

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al414

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#3 [url]

Nov 5 12 8:32 AM

I did have the interlining missing for my second IC suit. It felt really flimsy and was visibly wrinkly so I had it pressed and it was still wrinkled. I compared with the first IC suit and it was really noticeable but I thought maybe it was a different fabric type until my tailor confirmed it as well. Remake should be arriving tomorrow or Wednesday so hopefully it's fixed and not a new trend in the construction.

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adambeck

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#4 [url]

Nov 5 12 7:23 PM

Ok, so here's photo's worn with a different shirt, as well as with a t-shirt.

I still think it needs a touch of length on the sleeves, but maybe I'm crazy.  I think I'm starting to see what indochinoreview meant about the button stance, I think when it's this high it kind of accentuates my stomach, making me look a bit portly, when I'm actually more on the thinner side (though not skinny!).  Would a lower stance help that?

I took a few pics with a t shirt on, so you could see it without comparing to a shirt.  Is there any visual guide to what part of the wrist a shirt / jacket should fall at?

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indochinoreview

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#5 [url]

Nov 7 12 9:11 AM

Thanks for the update! Yes, it does need length on the sleeves for sure - different shirt emphasises that they are just too short. 

Yeah, the button stance. I have that same issue, if it's too high, I look like I have huge hips. A lower button stance is more flattering for my shape. 

Will look out for a visual guide for you!

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al414

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#6 [url]

Nov 7 12 10:44 AM

Received the remake today which upset me. The interlining is clearly still missing and I feel might be even worse now. The prior one had the lower half very noticeable but now even the lapels won't keep their shape and seem to just "flop" around with minimal movement. Unsure of what to do at this point. My blue sharkskin fits and feels amazingly without ever getting a remake but I'm not sure what happened after they moved to garment sizing.

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adambeck

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#7 [url]

Nov 7 12 10:17 PM

Thanks, indochinoreview!  Do you think 1/4" on the sleeves would do, or do they need a half inch?

al414, just curious, which suit did you order that lacked the interlining?  Maybe it's related to their recent designs vs. older ones?

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indochinoreview

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#8 [url]

Nov 8 12 10:53 AM

That's a hard thing to say, was wondering about the same. I would probably add 0.5 but have non-working buttons and use the tailor credit to have a tailor fix it entirely and make the buttons work.

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al414

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#9 [url]

Nov 8 12 7:32 PM

I agree with the .5" just in case since it's definitely easier to remove a bit.

As for the suit, it's the essential grey suit. The thing is, the original jacket felt exactly like the blue sharkskin and had good shape and weight. The two remakes, on the other hand, came with this new "construction."

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adambeck

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#10 [url]

Nov 8 12 9:43 PM

I just had my wife measure and on a tailored shirt I'm showing 5/8" of linen.  I think I'm going to just have them add 1/4" and keep the functional buttons, I don't know why but having functional buttons is important to me...  I'm still a little unclear on sleeve lengths, but I have read that you want 1/4-1/2" of linen showing, so this would fall right in there.



So yeah, I'm going to slim down the biceps on the sleeves, lengthen them a touch, get a lower button stance and take a tiny bit in on he chest.  Thanks everyone, for all the help!

al414 - they added a illustration of their interlining and construction here: http://www.indochino.com/Suits/quality - does anyone know if this differs from how they used to make them?

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al414

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#12 [url]

Nov 9 12 6:16 PM

It does say lighter weight now.. But I'm not sure if in the right direction. The suit just gets wrinkly and feels more like a sweater with the way it drapes. Unless it's a mistake that happened twice I might just have to move away from the company :( it's unfortunate because I was interested in getting a topcoat and a few blazers and the midnight blue tux.

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deride

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Posts: 12

#13 [url]

Nov 22 12 1:32 PM

I got the essential grey suit two weeks ago and I have the same issue with "floppy" lapels. They just keep rolling and rolling outward until it starts hiding the buttons. The lapels seem really flimsy. I thought maybe it was the way it was packed in the suit box, and maybe it just needed pressing, but now I'm starting to wonder.

The suit fabric looks and feels fabulous, but the lapels really bug me. I feel like I can't wear the suit without the button done up all the time, and even then the lapel doesn't want to roll along its intended crease.

I plan to have the suit pressed, but I worry that whoever I take it to will crease the lapel more than I like, and that will be almost as bad as having a floppy roll. I didn't have this problem with my previous Indochino suit.


Click here to view the attachment

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indochinoreview

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#14 [url]

Nov 22 12 3:23 PM

Suit seems to fit really well. I can see what you mean about the lapels, definitely looks a bit strange once someone tells you to look closer. 

I'll try to get hold of someone at Indochino regarding those construction issues. Let's see if I find out something.

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al414

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#15 [url]

Nov 24 12 10:40 AM


Fit does look great. And I had the exact problem. Not only the lapels, but follow them down to the bottom of the jacket and you'll see the jacket just sort of "floats." I noticed it even more when I would walk. Also, I think since it is inherently "lighter" as the website says, or missing the interlining, I noticed it would get very wrinkly around the chest area after having it on for a few minutes. This is why I said it feels like a sweater more than a jacket, and I couldn't deal with that personally. Their other upgrades and changes have been great so far (unbranded buttons, Bemberg linings, etc.) but I just can't understand why they compromised the most important element of a jacket.

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deride

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Posts: 12

#16 [url]

Dec 5 12 10:38 PM

I sent this same photo to IndoChino with a description of the problem and they said that this should be solved by having the suit pressed. They said that getting it pressed will be covered by the alteration credit. I have my doubts, but I will give it a try.

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tjunkie

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#17 [url]

Dec 6 12 10:38 AM

Just thought I'd add my 2p here as it's the thread which most recently addresses the issue -- al414, deride, I've had a similar experience to yours. My last IC suit, an essential charcoal which arrived late October, continues to feel decidedly flimsy to me in the lapels and lower front. My two previous suit jackets, a light grey and a Vincero, both have an extra degree of weight and thickness to them in these areas, to an extent that seems unattributable to mere fabric weights.

I wrote to IC customer service when I received the suit, and received a rather uncharacteristic brush-off in the form of a boilerplate instruction to have it altered to my liking or apply for a remake, if I was displeased with the fit. Very polite, but no comment at all on the actual construction concern. As it fits brilliantly and I don't actually know what I'd be looking for internally, I haven't had it cut open or otherwise meddled with, but it does continue to gnaw at me, having read the similar accounts.

Lorenz, any word from IC on this? I gather your recent additions haven't exhibited anything along these lines?

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deride

Indochino Novice

Posts: 12

#18 [url]

Dec 6 12 11:40 AM

I just got back from Henry Singer, where they were happy to press the lapels while I waited at no charge. The tailor had told the sales associate that he didn't want to overdo the job, given the fused construction of the suit (danger of melting the glue), but he made the lapel drape considerably better. I think that it is still a VERY soft roll, and it seems that the garment just doesn't have the sturdiness required to hold its shape very well.

The sales associate also warned me not to have the suit cleaned unless absolutely necessary, as the soft construction will suffer considerably. He was super-nice about it, which I appreciated.

I guess I will have to have the lapels pressed occasionally. I love everything else about this suit, but this lapels issue is not ideal.

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indochinoreview

Indochino Regular

Posts: 100

#19 [url]

Dec 6 12 3:22 PM

I didn't experience this apparently different construction on my suits, I have to take a closer look a the lapels of the Tuxedo. Will update you if I find out anything from Indochino directly!

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al414

Indochino Novice

Posts: 16

#20 [url]

Dec 7 12 7:41 AM

I had the suit pressed too and while the lapels were in place then, it still felt too flimsy for me. After returning, I ended up doing some research to find a replacement and went with Black Lapel. There aren't as many fabrics available but the fit and quality blew me away.

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