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Indochino Essential Charcoal Suit, Indochino Supervisor Black & Blue Pinstriped Shirt

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karldrogo

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Posts: 13

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May 1 13 5:07 PM

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I just received an Indochino Essential Charcoal Suit and Supervisor Black & Blue Pinstriped Shirt I ordered during the Chinese New Year 20% off sale. Here are the pics. I only got it now because I had put it on hold while Indochino and I tried to work out my fit issues with my Navy Cotton Suit. Recall that unfortunately they ran out of the Navy Cotton Suit material so we couldn't do more iterations and tinkering with it, and proceeded with releasing the Essential Charcoal Suit back into production with adjustments supplied by my local tailor.

The shirt fits reliably the same as my two other Indochino shirts. However, I already have a general idea of what I need to adjust on the suit, but feedback is always greatly appreciated. Here's the funny thing... when I wear it and shift/adjust around little areas, it looks great, drapes well, wrinkles disappear, etc. Then I try and snap photos, and they make the suit look worse than it is, as seen below.

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karldrogo

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May 1 13 5:53 PM

Damn, I meant to post this in the Fit Check subforum. L, it is past the time I can edit/move my post, and I would greatly appreciate it if you relocated this thread in the proper place. Thanks! :)

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karldrogo

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Posts: 13

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May 2 13 5:14 PM

Visited my tailor today. He gave me some assessments, which I have depicted below.

He recommended I reduce the left sleeve length by a quarter inch, reduce the chest by a quarter inch, reduce the front-to-back shoulder measurement by a half inch (see final photo below), and reduce the left-to-right shoulder measurement by a quarter inch. Thoughts on these adjustments? They all easily surpass $75 in alterations, which means I'd have to request a free remake from Indochino and provide the photos below to show them.

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n00b2000

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Posts: 11

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May 3 13 9:59 AM

I'm not an expert by any means, but it looks to me like there are two main issues.

1) The sleeve pitch appears to be off, you hold your arms at least a few degrees farther back than the suit was designed to tolerate. That's probably what's causing a lot of the wrinkling at the triceps and shoulderblades. It also might be what's causing the shoulder divots, 'cause it certainly doesn't look like the shoulder is too wide - in fact, I think it you narrowed that measurement any more you might cause the shoulder to ride up more and throw the whole suit off, which to some extent appears to be what's happening right now. See if you can get this fixed before taking anything in up top, the jacket doesn't look like it could handle much of that as is. 

2) As to the flare in the skirt, it's something that I've encountered as well with IC suits, especially my first one. Because the waist suppression tends to be relatively high, when you button the suit up, it pulls the back in a way that seems to cause the skirt to pull away. I think this is exacerbated by IC's high button stance. My solution was twofold. First in my remake I let the stomach measurement out by an inch (anticipating that I'd take it back in later). Then I took it to the tailor, where he was able to take the whole jacket in according to my body contours, instead of just in a standard location. The second part of the remedy requires a pretty good tailor. The bottom 6 inches or so of the centre seam in the back needs to be taken apart and let out a little bit, basically to allow the 'flap' to wrap around your body a little more. I definitely wouldn't have just anyone make this adjustment (I currently have two suits awaiting this move since my tailor just retired a couple months ago), but it really helps enormously, and allows you to end up taking in the entire waist a little if you want. 

Again, I'm no expert, this is all mostly from my time reading various tailoring resources - I'd definitely encourage you to wait on other feedback, or go to Styleforum/AskAndy and get some advice there (some may deride your choice of IC or desire for a super-slim suit, but ignore them and you'll find some very helpful people). And I certainly won't be insulted if you or anyone else disagrees with or overrides my feedback, at the end of the day what matters is that the suit ends up looking great. Let us know how any remakes/alterations go! 

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karldrogo

Indochino Novice

Posts: 13

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Aug 26 13 5:02 PM

Here are long overdue photos of my Indochino Essential Charcoal Suit. This is actually the third version of this order. Version 1 was seen earlier in this thread, months ago, and was a two-button that was actually passable, but needed fine-tuning. Version 2, I never bothered sharing in this thread because it was horrendous. Version 3 is what you see below, and I requested a one-button for a lower stance and actually grew to like the sleek look of one button, and most of the fine-tuning is there. When you look at the back area in the photographs, all those wrinkles mysterious appear that don't appear when I look at my back in the mirror over my shoulder. So I have no idea how to get rid of them from showing in photographs but not in real life, because I do get complimented frequently on how I look when wearing this suit. The jacket is already very fitted, and one tailor I visited cautioned me that it was a tiny bit tight at the button area since you can faintly see some of the X-lines across my belly especially in the final photo.

Indochino grants the usual $75 alterations credit towards tailoring. I had my tailor strengthen the button (only a few dollars, but worth it) and she give her assessment, which she said was "perfect" other than possibly being a tiny bit too tight at the belly as mentioned above.

Thoughts welcomed. It's much too late to request any changes with Indochino since plenty of time has elapsed since I received this suit and I already wore it many times for a few interviews and while I was on travel. This is essentially the measurement profile I'd be copying and uploading to Dragon Inside if/when I give them a shot.

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